https://www.wikihow.com/Replace-the-Ballast-in-a-Fluorescent-Lighting-Fixture The schematic shows red, yel, blue. 2) from the left side, there is one red, one blue and one yellow wire that are not reflected in the diagram below. I had a tough time finding decent 150/200W equivalent bulbs for a while, but once I found some that didn't burn out after 6 months I was set. If a fluorescent tube blinks on and off-a slower and more distinct process than flickering-the fault may lie in loose wiring or in another component, called the ballast. They are different. Light fixtures from the factory are wired with the ballast wires connected directly to the lampholders. The fixture I show had an old ballast that used T12 tubes, while the new ballast only works for the T8 size. I just stripped and twisted all the corresponding colored wires together: 2 reds to 2 reds, 2 blues to 2 Do not try to duplicate the wiring that is on the old ballast. 2. The two yellow I had originally connected to the single yellow on the left. The two blues and reds on the right connected to matching fixture wires on the right. Others want it on the 2 pins at one end of the tube, in which case watch out for "shorting lampholders". If your fixture is old enough to have a "starter" you will follow the wiring digram in the new ballast and probably not use that. The ballast makes sure that the amount of current being provided to the lamp is not more than the specification of the light. First start by of course turning off the power and disconnecting the black and white wires from your in coming power feed to the old fixture you could reinstall wire nuts on black and white power feed wires as to be able to turn power back on to the rest of the lights on that circuit or leave it off if your the forget full type and might not remember its on when you go to Install the new ballast. this allowed having only 1 bulb in the fixture to reduce the brightness. Looks like you're using new Reddit on an old browser. I purchased a GE proline ballast replacement for a two lamp flourescent fixture, 48" each lamp. Follow the diagram on the new one and you will be fine. 5. Generally, more than 400 V is required to strike the gas discharge process in fluorescent tube light. I purchased a GE proline ballast replacement for a two lamp flourescent fixture, 48" each lamp. Efficiency is really what it’s all about. Run one jumper from each side of each yellow to the other socket on that end. my lights are the single pin florescent type. On the 4 lamp parallel ballast diagram below, each individual wire is connected to a pair of individual wires … Two individual wires of the same color (blue or red) connect to each of the individual pairs on lamps 1 and 4. Yes, the third ballast (HLS) doesn't work since the digital timer inside it died, the light would not work when tested. Cut the colored wires to the old ballast LED Lighting has really boomed in the RV Industry. We're talking old 8-foot flourescent fixture. 1 to the socket of each bulb and then The solution is as follows: First, turn off the power supply to the fixture. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. The new motor has several ways to connect common. Without a ballast, a lamp or a bulb will rapidly increase its current draw and it can become uncontrollable as well. When changing a ballast, it is not feasible to disconnect and reconnect the wires from each lampholder. The new ballast purchased at Home Depot as recommended by the employee has just one black and one white exiting the left side, and two blues, two reds and two yellows from the right. Which I tied together the corresponding colors with no issues. It’s worth spending a bit more in order to save yourself money and effort in the future. The new, replacement ballast (Philips RELB-2S40-N) is below. my new electronic ballast has 1 white, 1 black, 2 yellow, 2 red, and 2 blue wires … Stack Exchange Network. Moving from a magnetic ballast to an electronic one will help you do that. How to Wire a T8 Ballast. A ballast is an electronic device that regulates the current required to illuminate a fluorescent tube. Because ballasts can last for 30 years or more, there are still some PCB-containing ballasts in older buildings. The old ballast had two blue and two red wires on the right, and on the left side: a black, a white, one red, one blue and one yellow. I have indeed connected the two blue on the right side of the ballast with the two blue on the right side of the lamp as well as the two red with the two red. It will perform badly or not at all with a T-12 tube (1-1/2" diam.) The original magnetic ballast, at the bottom of the photo, is an Advance Ad-Lite Fluorescent Lamp Ballast produced by Advance Transformer Co. (Chicago) in the 1960s is far larger and heavier than the Philips Advance IntellilVolt replacement electronic ballast used to replace it. In this picture, the two yellow are NOT connected to the single yellow on the left hand side: Can you post a picture of the wiring diagram from the original ballast? The fixture now will not work with just 1 bulb, 2 must be intalled into the fixture. Follow the wiring diagram that came with your new ballast. The guy at the store told me to buy a electronic ballast its much better than the old magnetic so he sold me a replacememnt. Remove/reinstall. The two yellow wires are the common connection. The old ballast had 4 yellow wires allowing a completed circuit for each bulb. A new fixture would likely be only about $10 more than the replacement ballast. If you have the chops to change a ballast, you can handle this. Pin 2 of lamp 1 and pin 2 of lamp 2 go to the other yellow wire. Do you mind explaining how that worked? Took old ballast to supply store and got the newer, smaller replacement ballast. You get home and BOOM the thang has more wires than your old one. Here's an article on how to tell the difference. What is the red wire on a ballast? Here's a larger view of the wiring diagram. If you need to buy a T8 tube, you'll have your choice of color temperature. A 4 lamp fixture with two series ballasts can be replaced with a 4 lamp parallel ballast. Aluminum wiring has been studied since about 1945, and began appearing in homes in North American as early as 1965. Since we are going to be removing the ballast in the next step, you want to also cut all the wires from the ballast to the tube holders. The new ballast has one black wire, one white wire, two blue and one red. The site may not work properly if you don't, If you do not update your browser, we suggest you visit, Press J to jump to the feed. Note: There will be four to eight wires coming out of the ballast. I am trying to replace an instant start ballast with a programmed start ballast, since it's a frequently switched fixture, and I'm tired of burning bulbs every two months. Thank you very much. For reference, the ballast will likely have a wiring diagram printed right on the ballast itself. But, you will need to be proficient at reading the schematic that is on the new ballast. Here we will be wiring the new ballast to the old and some new tombstones. The old style ballast and its wire could have dated from the 1950's. My diagram has two red, two blue and two yellow. IF your fixture is quite old you may be better off buying a new one. The old ballast had 4 yellow wires allowing a completed circuit for each bulb. Is the fixture grounded? That was probably one combination I didn't try. Aluminum Electrical Wiring Types [Click to enlarge any image] As you see in the photo above, typically aluminum electrical branch circuit wiring was plastic-covered. Ballast Bypass or AC Direct is a solution that doesn’t rely on the use of ballast as it has more disadvantages than advantages. The new ballast wires are connected to Ballasts that don't contain PCBs have the words "No PCBs" printed on them. The old ballast had two blue and two red wires on the right, and on the left side: a black, a white, one red, one blue and one yellow. There were some fluorescent fixtures in my father's gas station that were over 40 years old and still working!! I like a lot of light so lumens and color temperature are a big thing for me and LED has helped with that, since now I can get a brighter bulb with less consumption. You should have just bought a whole new fixture. Use orange wire connector for more than four 18 AWG wire connections. If not, no big deal. The wires from the new ballast are trimmed of excess length. Snip the old fluorescent ballast wiring several inches from the end of the fluorescent ballast with side-cutting pliers or wire snips. Is this how you have it wired? Hi, I am trying to replace the two-light ballast below. The other two individual wires of the same color (blue or red) connect to each of the individual pairs on lamps 2 and 3. Talk shop, show off pictures of your work, get general help, and ask code related questions. When the switch is ON, the initial voltage across the lamp becomes 1000 V around due to high valued, hence gas discharge takes place instantaneously. Cheaper ballasts are likely to need more rewiring than a fitting that has a branded ballast in it. Old Ballast was 1 red - 1 blue - 1 black and 1. Cut the wires close to the old ballast and remove the ballast. Standard fluorescent lighting fixtures are more energy-efficient than incandescent light fixtures, and the bulbs generally last considerably longer, but occasionally a special transformer inside the fixture, called a ballast, may need replacing., may need replacing. 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